De las leyes suntuarias al lujo silencioso: evolución histórica del clasismo en la moda y sus nuevas narrativas de sostenibilidad e igualdad
Publicado
:Número
:Sección
:Licencia
Esta obra está bajo una licencia internacional Creative Commons Atribución-NoComercial-CompartirIgual 4.0.
Descargas
Clasismo en la moda, distinción social, exclusión simbólica, consumo sostenible, moda circular, justicia social
El presente artículo examina el clasismo en la moda contemporánea y su persistencia bajo las nuevas retóricas de sostenibilidad e inclusión. A través de una revisión documental y teórica, el estudio aborda la evolución del vestir como lenguaje de distinción social y su reconfiguración en el contexto digital y sostenible del siglo XXI. Desde las teorías clásicas de Veblen, Bourdieu, Lipovetsky y Entwistle, se analizan las formas simbólicas mediante las cuales la moda continúa reproduciendo jerarquías de clase, a la vez que simula prácticas inclusivas. Los resultados de la revisión evidencian que las estéticas del privilegio, como el quiet luxury o el minimalismo de élite, y las dinámicas del consumo digital refuerzan nuevas formas de exclusión simbólica basadas en el capital cultural y mediático. Asimismo, la sostenibilidad emerge como un campo ambivalente: promueve discursos de responsabilidad social, pero a menudo funciona como signo de distinción moral y económica. No obstante, las propuestas de moda circular, decolonial e inclusiva abren horizontes para resignificar la relación entre moda, consumo y justicia social. Se concluye que la moda, aunque sigue operando como instrumento de poder simbólico, posee el potencial de transformarse en un espacio de redistribución del valor cultural y de construcción de igualdad estética y material.
Ayoub, M. (2025). The sociology of fashion: Identity, class and consumerism. Arts and Social Sciences Journal, 16(3), 110.
Beard, N. D. (2008). The branding of ethical fashion and the consumer: A luxury paradox. Fashion Theory, 12(4), 447–468.
Bick, R., Halsey, E., & Ekenga, C. C. (2018). The global environmental injustice of fast fashion. Environmental Health, 17, 92. https://doi.org/10.1186/s12940-018-0433-7
Black, S. (2020). Eco-Chic: The Fashion Paradox. Black Dog Publishing.
Bourdieu, P. (1979). La distinction: Critique sociale du jugement. Les Éditions de Minuit.
Calvi, G., Panzera, L., & Rossi, L. (2024). Sumptuary laws, gender and public dressing in early modern Genoa. Annali di Storia dell’urbanistica, 5, 124.
Crane, D. (2000). Fashion and Its Social Agendas: Class, Gender, and Identity in Clothing. University of Chicago Press.
Davis, F. (1992). Fashion, Culture, and Identity. University of Chicago Press.
Desierto, D., & Koyama, M. (2020). The political economy of status competition: Sumptuary laws in preindustrial Europe. https://desireedesierto.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/sumptuary_12.pdf
Entwistle, J. (2000). The Fashioned Body: Fashion, Dress and Modern Social Theory. Polity Press.
Fletcher, K. (2014). Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys. Earthscan.
Fletcher, K. (2019). Craft of Use: Post-growth fashion and the challenge to consumption. Routledge.
Fu, X. (2021). Old clothes, new consumption: Exploring secondhand clothes consumption practice in the UK (Doctoral thesis). University of Sheffield. https://etheses.whiterose.ac.uk/28065
Gardetti, M. Á., & Torres, A. (2013). Sustainability in Fashion and Textiles: Values, Design, Production and Consumption. Greenleaf.
Gill, R. (2016). Postfeminist Media Culture: Elements of a Sensibility. European Journal of Cultural Studies, 10(2), 147–166.
Hethorn, J., & Ulasewicz, C. (2018). Sustainable Fashion: What's Next? A Conversation about Issues, Practices, and Possibilities. Fairchild.
Jansson, S. (2024). Dressed to Oppress: The Societal Implications of Online Fast Fashion Trends. Tilburg University. https://arno.uvt.nl/show.cgi?fid=158701
Joy, A., Sherry, J. F., Venkatesh, A., Wang, J., & Chan, R. (2012). Fast fashion, sustainability, and luxury brands. Fashion Theory, 16(3), 273–295.
Jung, J., et al. (2016). Stratification and segmentation: Social class in consumer behavior. Journal of Consumer Psychology, 26(4), 583–593. DOI:10.1016/j.jcps.2016.02.003
Kawamura, Y. (2018). Fashion-ology: An Introduction to Fashion Studies. Bloomsbury Academic.
Kucher, I. (2024). Ordinary fashion consumption: Investigating the practices of clothing purchase, use and disposal in Danish and Ukrainian contexts. Fashion Highlight. https://doi.org/10.36253/fh2758
Lipovetsky, G. (1987). L’Empire de l’éphémère: La mode et son destin dans les sociétés modernes. Gallimard.
Masamba, M. (2024). The relationship between fashion and socioeconomic class. Samuel DuBois Cook Center on Social Equity. https://samuelduboiscookcenter.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/5-7-24-masamba-final-poster.pdf
McNeil, P. (2017). Luxury: A Rich History. Oxford University Press.
Niinimäki, K. (2020). Sustainable Fashion in a Circular Economy. Aalto University Press.
Pan, X. (2023). The evolving role of class in choice of fashion in postmodern society. ESSS Humanities & Social Sciences, 8(1). https://doi.org/10.54097/ehss.v8i.4714
Pham, M. (2015). Asians Wear Clothes on the Internet: Race, Gender, and the Work of Personal Style Blogging. Duke University Press.
Potter, S. (2025). How conspicuous is fashion? A quantitative analysis of luxury discourse in Vogue and income inequality, 1910–2000. LSE Working Paper 045. https://eprints.lse.ac.uk/129442/
Ragusa, P. (2023). Life-centered design: Bridging the gap between gendered clothing systems and institutional spaces. University of Arkansas. https://scholarworks.uark.edu/artuht/8
Rinaldi, F. (2019). Sustainable Luxury and Social Value: Towards a New Paradigm. Springer.
Rocamora, A. (2002). Fields of Fashion: Critical Insights into Bourdieu’s Sociology of Culture. Journal of Consumer Culture, 2(3), 341–362.
Salah, T. (2021). Racial capitalism: How capitalism denies black bodies in the fashion industry. Fashion Theory.
Sare, B., et al. (2020). Oppressive curriculum: Sexist, racist, classist, and homophobic practice of dress codes in schooling.
Skov, L. (2020). Globalization and Fashion: Interdisciplinary Approaches. Routledge.
Thomas, D. (2020). Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes. Penguin Press.
Tyler, I., & Bennett, B. (2010). ‘Celebrity chav’: Fame, femininity and social class. European Journal of Cultural Studies, 13(3), 375–393.
Usunobun, A. (2024). Socioeconomic and psychological factors affecting clothing consumption among female undergraduates in Nigeria. Journal of Education and General Studies, 13(2), 48–57.
Veblen, T. (1899). The Theory of the Leisure Class: An Economic Study of Institutions. Macmillan.
Villafuerte, N. (2019). Animal Fur Coats: A Symbol of Status or Stigma? California State University, Fullerton. https://thesis.fullerton.edu/handle/20.500.12680/9YEFCK3S
Wilson, E. (1985). Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity. University of California Press.
Wissinger, E. (2015). This Year’s Model: Fashion, Media, and the Making of Glamour. New York University Press.
Wold, P., Thompson, D., & Berger, J. (2019). Trickle-round signals: When low status is mixed with high. Journal of Consumer Research, 46(5), 1005–1030. https://doi.org/10.1093/jcr/ucz042
El presente artículo examina el clasismo en la moda contemporánea y su persistencia bajo las nuevas retóricas de sostenibilidad e inclusión. A través de una revisión documental y teórica, el estudio aborda la evolución del vestir como lenguaje de distinción social y su reconfiguración en el contexto digital y sostenible del siglo XXI. Desde las teorías clásicas de Veblen, Bourdieu, Lipovetsky y Entwistle, se analizan las formas simbólicas mediante las cuales la moda continúa reproduciendo jerarquías de clase, a la vez que simula prácticas inclusivas. Los resultados de la revisión evidencian que las estéticas del privilegio, como el quiet luxury o el minimalismo de élite, y las dinámicas del consumo digital refuerzan nuevas formas de exclusión simbólica basadas en el capital cultural y mediático. Asimismo, la sostenibilidad emerge como un campo ambivalente: promueve discursos de responsabilidad social, pero a menudo funciona como signo de distinción moral y económica. No obstante, las propuestas de moda circular, decolonial e inclusiva abren horizontes para resignificar la relación entre moda, consumo y justicia social. Se concluye que la moda, aunque sigue operando como instrumento de poder simbólico, posee el potencial de transformarse en un espacio de redistribución del valor cultural y de construcción de igualdad estética y material.
Ayoub, M. (2025). The sociology of fashion: Identity, class and consumerism. Arts and Social Sciences Journal, 16(3), 110.
Beard, N. D. (2008). The branding of ethical fashion and the consumer: A luxury paradox. Fashion Theory, 12(4), 447–468.
Bick, R., Halsey, E., & Ekenga, C. C. (2018). The global environmental injustice of fast fashion. Environmental Health, 17, 92. https://doi.org/10.1186/s12940-018-0433-7
Black, S. (2020). Eco-Chic: The Fashion Paradox. Black Dog Publishing.
Bourdieu, P. (1979). La distinction: Critique sociale du jugement. Les Éditions de Minuit.
Calvi, G., Panzera, L., & Rossi, L. (2024). Sumptuary laws, gender and public dressing in early modern Genoa. Annali di Storia dell’urbanistica, 5, 124.
Crane, D. (2000). Fashion and Its Social Agendas: Class, Gender, and Identity in Clothing. University of Chicago Press.
Davis, F. (1992). Fashion, Culture, and Identity. University of Chicago Press.
Desierto, D., & Koyama, M. (2020). The political economy of status competition: Sumptuary laws in preindustrial Europe. https://desireedesierto.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/sumptuary_12.pdf
Entwistle, J. (2000). The Fashioned Body: Fashion, Dress and Modern Social Theory. Polity Press.
Fletcher, K. (2014). Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys. Earthscan.
Fletcher, K. (2019). Craft of Use: Post-growth fashion and the challenge to consumption. Routledge.
Fu, X. (2021). Old clothes, new consumption: Exploring secondhand clothes consumption practice in the UK (Doctoral thesis). University of Sheffield. https://etheses.whiterose.ac.uk/28065
Gardetti, M. Á., & Torres, A. (2013). Sustainability in Fashion and Textiles: Values, Design, Production and Consumption. Greenleaf.
Gill, R. (2016). Postfeminist Media Culture: Elements of a Sensibility. European Journal of Cultural Studies, 10(2), 147–166.
Hethorn, J., & Ulasewicz, C. (2018). Sustainable Fashion: What's Next? A Conversation about Issues, Practices, and Possibilities. Fairchild.
Jansson, S. (2024). Dressed to Oppress: The Societal Implications of Online Fast Fashion Trends. Tilburg University. https://arno.uvt.nl/show.cgi?fid=158701
Joy, A., Sherry, J. F., Venkatesh, A., Wang, J., & Chan, R. (2012). Fast fashion, sustainability, and luxury brands. Fashion Theory, 16(3), 273–295.
Jung, J., et al. (2016). Stratification and segmentation: Social class in consumer behavior. Journal of Consumer Psychology, 26(4), 583–593. DOI:10.1016/j.jcps.2016.02.003
Kawamura, Y. (2018). Fashion-ology: An Introduction to Fashion Studies. Bloomsbury Academic.
Kucher, I. (2024). Ordinary fashion consumption: Investigating the practices of clothing purchase, use and disposal in Danish and Ukrainian contexts. Fashion Highlight. https://doi.org/10.36253/fh2758
Lipovetsky, G. (1987). L’Empire de l’éphémère: La mode et son destin dans les sociétés modernes. Gallimard.
Masamba, M. (2024). The relationship between fashion and socioeconomic class. Samuel DuBois Cook Center on Social Equity. https://samuelduboiscookcenter.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/5-7-24-masamba-final-poster.pdf
McNeil, P. (2017). Luxury: A Rich History. Oxford University Press.
Niinimäki, K. (2020). Sustainable Fashion in a Circular Economy. Aalto University Press.
Pan, X. (2023). The evolving role of class in choice of fashion in postmodern society. ESSS Humanities & Social Sciences, 8(1). https://doi.org/10.54097/ehss.v8i.4714
Pham, M. (2015). Asians Wear Clothes on the Internet: Race, Gender, and the Work of Personal Style Blogging. Duke University Press.
Potter, S. (2025). How conspicuous is fashion? A quantitative analysis of luxury discourse in Vogue and income inequality, 1910–2000. LSE Working Paper 045. https://eprints.lse.ac.uk/129442/
Ragusa, P. (2023). Life-centered design: Bridging the gap between gendered clothing systems and institutional spaces. University of Arkansas. https://scholarworks.uark.edu/artuht/8
Rinaldi, F. (2019). Sustainable Luxury and Social Value: Towards a New Paradigm. Springer.
Rocamora, A. (2002). Fields of Fashion: Critical Insights into Bourdieu’s Sociology of Culture. Journal of Consumer Culture, 2(3), 341–362.
Salah, T. (2021). Racial capitalism: How capitalism denies black bodies in the fashion industry. Fashion Theory.
Sare, B., et al. (2020). Oppressive curriculum: Sexist, racist, classist, and homophobic practice of dress codes in schooling.
Skov, L. (2020). Globalization and Fashion: Interdisciplinary Approaches. Routledge.
Thomas, D. (2020). Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes. Penguin Press.
Tyler, I., & Bennett, B. (2010). ‘Celebrity chav’: Fame, femininity and social class. European Journal of Cultural Studies, 13(3), 375–393.
Usunobun, A. (2024). Socioeconomic and psychological factors affecting clothing consumption among female undergraduates in Nigeria. Journal of Education and General Studies, 13(2), 48–57.
Veblen, T. (1899). The Theory of the Leisure Class: An Economic Study of Institutions. Macmillan.
Villafuerte, N. (2019). Animal Fur Coats: A Symbol of Status or Stigma? California State University, Fullerton. https://thesis.fullerton.edu/handle/20.500.12680/9YEFCK3S
Wilson, E. (1985). Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity. University of California Press.
Wissinger, E. (2015). This Year’s Model: Fashion, Media, and the Making of Glamour. New York University Press.
Wold, P., Thompson, D., & Berger, J. (2019). Trickle-round signals: When low status is mixed with high. Journal of Consumer Research, 46(5), 1005–1030. https://doi.org/10.1093/jcr/ucz042